Below is a brief history on this thing we call surfing as it’s origins stem from the heart of Hawaii. The footage isn’t exactly brand new, but if your anything like me you never get sick of watching the worlds best getting blown out of heaving barrels. Hawaiis Backdoor and Pipeline are still one of God’s greatest forces to be reckoned with too date.
The earliest written account of surfing, or “hee nalu” in Hawaiian, was by Lieutenant James King in 1779 just months after Captain Cook’s death. He described Native Hawaiians riding a wood plank on the swells of Kealakekua Bay on Hawaii Island. Even he could see how fun the sport was writing, “… they seem to feel a great pleasure in the motion that this exercise gives.”
Hawaii is also the birthplace of big wave surfing. In the 1950’s surfers began to ride the powerful winter waves of Makaha on Oahu’s west shore and Waimea Bay on the North Shore. Big wave season in Hawaii happens roughly between November and February on Hawaii’s north shores.
Enjoy the klip we put together below as the footage is insane!!!